Great cafes are a dime a dozen in Kobe, a city well-known for its Western-style desserts and “oshare” (refined and fashionable) aesthetic. But there are also some special shops where adventurous spirits can enjoy a meal or a coffee in a traditional, distinctly Japanese atmosphere.
Nunobiki Ontaki Chaya is such a place. Originally opened in 1914, it was built on a cliff overlooking Ontaki, Nunobiki’s largest and most spectacular waterfall. For over a century, this open-air tea house has been enjoyed by hikers, nature lovers, and anyone else willing to brave the 15-minute uphill climb from Shin-Kobe Station.
The structure of the tea house itself is nothing special, basically a corrugated iron roof held up by wooden beams. There is an “inside” room whose sliding doors and windows could be closed to keep out cold drafts in winter, but the rest of the seating area is in the open air. The tea house’s “entrance” is nothing more than a low gate and a hanging curtain. The simple decor and wooden panel walls create a humble, Showa-era ambiance. And yet that simplicity and openness, in a large modern city like Kobe, is something very special indeed.
The friendly owner serves up simple, hearty, and delicious Japanese dishes such as oden, ramen, yudofu, and rice balls, as well as traditional sweets, coffee, beer, and sake. However, the most wonderful thing about this place is its location. Ontaki is visible from the windows, and the whole place is filled with the sound of singing birds and roaring water.
My visit to Nunobiki Ontaki Chaya was on a humid 85-degree day in late June, but I found it surprisingly cool. There was a nice breeze coming in through the windows, and my ice coffee was refreshing. I made my way back down the trail happy and energized.
If you would like to visit Nunobiki Ontaki Chaya, check out their official website for their menu as well as walking directions from Shin-Kobe Station here: https://ontaki.jimdofree.com/
